I’m not usually the “touring type”. I have found tours in the past very restrictive. You usually get taken to “touristy” places and you don’t see the real country. Drive – commentary – stop – photo – drive – commentary – stop – photo. So it was a tough decision for me to decide to go on a tour in Scotland. Sometimes it feels like “cattle tourism”.
But I am really, really glad I booked the Macbackpackers 3 day Isle of Skye tour.
For an Aussie, a professional tour is usually expensive, and the DIY approach can be a lot more affordable. But I decided to bite the bullet. I had limited time in Scotland, and I really did want to hear some stories, and see some key locations.
Why? Well, just look at my surname – McEachran. Yep, this is one of the numerous countries my ancestors are from, but it is the one country that I think of the most, especially when I hear my last name.
The internet can really only tell you so much. It’s when you see the people, and stand on the land, and breathe in the air, that you learn more that you can ever learn from a book.
Edinburgh 9am
It was raining. No, it was bucketing down. Such a crazy storm so early in the morning (thank you global warming).
We were herded from the Castle Rock Hostel lounge into the Macbackpackers bus around 9.15. I somehow was one of the last on the bus, which made me a bit nervous, as I had to sit up the back, and I was worried for my car/bus-sickness. But luckily I found a spot in the middle of the back row with a clear view straight down the middle.
It was good that the bus was only just over half full. I think a completely full bus would have felt tight.
Our driver introduced himself as Michael. A patriotic Scotsman. And he seemed to be a no-nonsense, mad science teacher kind of patriarch. The kilt was a nice touch. I’m not sure though if the men today really LIKE to wear them. I wish I’d asked… anyhow.
He also asked everybody where they were from. A nice ice-breaking touch. And off we went!
First Stop in Dunkeld
After 90 minutes on the road in the pouring rain, and by-passing the first ever town of “Perth”, we arrived in a little village called Dunkeld. And I had already met fellow Aussie and Sydney-sider Kieren and Delhi-native and London resident Akkriti up the back of the bus.
First priority was to pick up an umbrella, so I headed straight for the Co-op. I thought it was a good opportunity to grab some lunch as well. The umbrella was only GBP4 – perfect.
Next I stopped by the Atholl Memorial Fountain…
Then I went to the local cafe, mostly because I was tempted to see if their “awesome coffee” sign outside was true. After the bad run of London coffee, it was surprisingly really good!
I also met other fellow travelers Eduado from Spain and William from France.
Sadly, I was a bit too slow to get to see the Cathedral ruins… maybe next time.
Second stop Tomatin Whisky
Of course, a tour of the Highlands would not be complete without visiting the best tourist trap of all – a whisky distillery for a free sample!
It was a bumpy and very fast 2 hour ride up towards Inverness and the distillery.
We were supposed to stop at another area, where we could eat our lunch and visit a historical area famous in movies and tv shows but sadly it was closed and blocked off, so we headed up to the distillery instead.
Yes, we were “invited” to watch a film of how whisky is made, before the samples of whisky were handed out. It felt a little cheesy, but I probably would have liked to see the film anyway. I know whisky is a huge part of Scotland’s history.
I passed on the whisky, and instead opted to eat my Co-op Falafel Salad outside.
Culloden Battlefield
In case you haven’t heard, Scotland has a violent and turbulent past. Not just the cross-clan fighting, but England was fighting the Scots for 100s of years, trying to “win” the Highlands. There are plenty of horror stories and tragedies to entertain the visitors.
Culloden Battlefield is one of the monumental places where the Scots screwed up and history was changed forever.
Towards one o’clock, the Jacobite artillery opened fire on government soldiers. The government responded with their own cannon, and the Battle of Culloden began.
Bombarded by cannon shot and mortar bombs, the Jacobite clans held back, waiting for the order to attack. At last they moved forwards, through hail, smoke, murderous gunfire and grapeshot. Around eighty paces from their enemy they started to fire their muskets and charged. Some fought ferociously. Others never reached their goal. The government troops had finally worked out bayonet tactics to challenge the dreaded Highland charge and broadsword. The Jacobites lost momentum, wavered, then fled.
Hardly an hour had passed between the first shots and the final flight of the Prince’s army. Although a short battle by European standards, it was an exceptionally bloody one.
It’s a pretty sad place, but well set up for visitors, and kind to the memory of the fallen.
Inverness
I think Inverness is a town I would like to come back to. We really just passed through without stopping, but it looks beautiful.
Loch Ness
Of course. A visit to Scotland is not nearly complete unless you swing by the most famous lake – Ness.
We were “dared” to go for a swim, and many on our bus took up the challenge. I might have done it, if I didn’t have a horrendous head cold.
Akkriti and Keiren did well…
Urquhart Castle
On the edge of Loch Ness, this is one of Scotland’s most famous and photographed castles.
Urquhart Castle is around 500 years old, making it a medieval castle, and it has featured prominently in history, seeing it’s fair share of bloodshed.
We didn’t go close or inside, but we did get a peak from the roadside. That suited me fine. I figured the castle would be tourist-central in Summer.
Five Sisters of Kintail
Our next stop was freezing, but offered the most breathtaking view so far.
Just magical, with a weird and sad story included.
Eilean Donan Castle
Ok, I may mention this more than once. I’m a fan of the movie Highlander (there can be only one!) So Eilean Donan Castle was definitely a highlight for me on this tour.
If you watch the McLeod Clan go off to fight the Frasers in Highlander, you will recognise this castle.
A really special stop.
Arriving in Kyleakin
Around 6.30pm we rocked over the bridge onto the Isle of Skye, and into Kyleakin. Population 300. So cute!
We were staying in a separate building away from the main hostel, but I loved it. It was an old cute modified cottage with small bed rooms, a lounge room, dining/ breakfast room, and kitchen.
It was really well set up. My only complaint would be closing the kitchen for tea/ coffee between 10.30pm and 7am. Crikey! When it’s Summer and you’re out and the sun sets at 10.15pm it’s a bit of a bummer to not be able to make a cuppa tea when you get back to the hostel. I think a summer time hours revision is in order, to be more like 12am to 6am in the Edinburgh Hostel.
Anyhow, that aside, it was picturesque and delightful.
We all headed out for dinner fairly quickly after arriving to the Castle Moil Restaurant, or more accurately, the bar area with the great views.
Fish, chips and peas was GBP10.95 – pretty good price.
We were all hoping to catch the sunset at 10.15pm but the clouds were blocking. Still it was a great light show. And I got chatting to Sao from South Korea and Ping from Singapore. Fantastic peeps!
